Yachting Like It Is

Rose at 0600 ship time/ 0400 GMT for a topside—the only place permitted—breakfast.  It is calm & beautiful with the sun rising and with a nearly full but waning moon overhead. We are 30 miles off the Algerian Coast in position:  36° 23.’3 N ; 000° 41.’0 W.  The 3770 miles under the keel still leave us with over 800 miles to the Messina straits and another several hundred to the Corinth Canal and Athens.

Unfortunately it is a motor sail and quite frankly it is a lot more motor than sail at this point.  However, having been in these water before reminds me that praying for wind may not be the smartest thing to do. It appears that you either have too much or too little wind here.  And as I’ve gotten a little older and take things more as they come, I am not really that particular in my Beaufort Force desires.

Some more of the crew: In continuing an introduction started in an earlier blog, here is an introduction to more of the crew.

There were three who were with us on the crossing to Horta, but disembarked there.  They have been missed by all.  All three would be considered to be real dynamos because they would jump into anything needing done and come out smiling.  Marina and Averill never were seen not smiling. Jason also smiled a lot but had a more serious look at times. Jason would volunteer for any duty and help repair anything—even the clogged heads, tanks and other less that pristine work assignments.

Remember the questions? Why this crossing? Destination? Life Goal? Maritime Interest? Here is what they said.

Marina Knapp. Sarasota, FL. USA, 19 years.  Marina just finished a SeaMester session on Argo when the opportunity to stay on board presented itself and she didn’t feel like going home, just yet. She also said that she thought another crossing might be a good thing.  Final destination is Azores.

Life goal is to become a Marine Biologist and get a chance to travel and research many different oceans.  Her maritime interest is potentially professional at some point. AND, this smile can’t hurt. Photo was taken just after Marina had received a dunking while working forward on the Bowsprit when we took a wave.

Averill (Elizabeth) Morash, Bernardsville, NJ, USA,18 and the youngest aboard. “A chance to spend more time on Argo- a boat I’ve grown to know and love over my past 3 months aboard”, is how she answered- why this crossing.  “Life goal: “to be happy.”

Jason Chodakowski, Chicago, IL, USA, 23 years of age.  “Crossing the Atlantic because the opportunity presented itself and because I love life at sea—I couldn’t say no.” Final destination is Horta. “My goal is to become a skipper as soon as possible, continue my medical education, and endeavor to combine these two aspirations as best I can.”

Andrew Barton. Valdosta, GA, USA, 23 years of age. Andrew is still with us & taking his MOY 200 Ton Unlimited. “To gain experience and enhance my knowledge and adventure, of course.” Final destination is wherever the wind carries me, Athens, Greece for now.” Life goal is to fall madly in love and spend many years in bliss. Interest in Maritime Career.

I have interviewed and will present a few more in a later post.

Meanwhile it continues to be a smooth motoring ride across the Mediterranean Sea. Excitement builds anyway because a number of the crew has not as yet sailed past the Prime Meridian at 000°. We are within 8 miles at this point.

CONGRATS: Sean, the Chief Mate has just logged mile number 10,000 aboard S/Y ARGO. That is a lot of miles, but Sean did it in the last 4 months.

PRIME MERIDIAN CROSSING

At 1230 local/ 1030 GMT we crossed over and are now in the Eastern Hemisphere.  Local time is still Eastern European Standard Time—thus the hour discrepancy.

Normally I would send this immediately.  However, I know its Memorial day weekend and nothing is open. I do want to take time out to thank and admire the many military personnel of numerous generations who have sacrificed much for our freedom. Those sacrifices have made these types of adventures possible. God help us keep it. Hopefully, those in Washington may eventually come to their senses and again work towards that same purpose.  I enjoy the freedom—and it is especially free out here.

Have a Great Memorial day weekend.

Lou aboard S/Y ARGO via BGAN on a very sunny and nice Mediterranean sea day.

By 2025GMT – actually 2225 local time on 27 May and in Gibraltar Bay at the commercial dock we mustered in the cockpit for our count-off head count and warnings to control our pent-up desires to celebrate. We docked in position 36° 08.’9 N ; 005° 22.’3 W. just in time to see the Full Moon rising over the rock.  Now to sample a few of the 365 pubs known to exist. Somehow in this situation we lose another 2 hours because of Easter European version of saving daylight hours

First stop for me was O’Reilly’s Pub. After a little imbibing and dinner we were ready to enjoy Gibraltar.  AND we did, next thing we realize is that it is 0500/ 0300 GMT and we are scheduled to leave at 2100/ 1900 GMT SHARP.

Day 28, 28 May 2010.

Following a little nap, Kevin & I decide that breakfast is in order and we have a desire to get to see the real Gibraltar. Holly and Sadie who earlier had actually found the real Gibraltar advised us of its direction.  Breakfast and a brief walk later we were hiring Taxi # 30 driven by a very knowledgeable and friendly Luigi—a self proclaimed smuggler in the old days– and were on our way to a great 2 hour mountainous drive to the top of the rock.  Our day included a stop at and perusing of each of the following:

Pillars of Hercules Statue

1. World War II Memorial to  US Soldiers & Sailors
2. The caverns including its performance hall
3. Numerous overlooks with great views
4. The City Under Seige Tunnel where 7000 Brits held off a very much larger and more frustrated Army. The Tunnel is an engineering marvel
5. The air strip where traffic is stopped to let planes land.
6. The Monkey & Nature preserve,
7. The Market Area
8. The Gibraltar Glass Blowing factory

As promised we were off the dock by 2030, 1830 GMT and under full sail and around The Rock by 2200/ 2000 GMT..  With approximately 1500 nm to go, we were in position

36° 05.’3 N ; 005° 12.’4 W doing 9 to 11 knots—nice current of 2-3 knots.

Oh yea, Happy birthday Spence: Jamie Frederick Spencer who is 23 years today and has celebrated it in Gibraltar. Now that’s what makes a memory. Spence has successfully completed his International Yacht Training of Fort Lauderdale, MOY 200 Limited Theory and is currently working on his MOY 200 Unlimited –“Ocean”. certification.

Saturday, Day 29  29 May 2010.

Sailing The Med. At 0900,we are in position 35° 55.’6 N; 003° 36.’9 W.   Having 3625 nm under the keel it leaves approximately 820 nm to Palermo, Sicily. Most of us hope to be able to stop here.  The stop is currently up in the air and totally dependant on our extremely tight schedule. Hopefully, a miracle in schedule will happen.

We are now on International Chart # 4301 of The Western Part- The Mediterranean Sea. We also are now motor sailing. Our final destination—Athens, Greece is approximately 1400 nautical miles to our East.

You know how it is—you lose a few you gain a few.  With our Gibraltar departure, we now have a crew contingency of 22. The new arrival is Annie who has come aboard to do the MOY 200 Ton Limited. Welcome aboard.  She is currently adjusting to a 3 on 6 off routine and will start class tomorrow.

At 1300/ 1100 GMT we are in position is 36° 02’ N ; 003° 08’ W.  The barometer reads 1024 mb and we are passing the Isle de Alboran Lighthouse off to our starboard beam.

Location and time at transmission is 1530 local/ 1330 GMT  36 06’ N;  002 47’ W.  That is 3665 nm under the keel with another 1350 nm to go.

Lou aboard S/Y ARGO. Western Mediterranean Sea with Force 0 – 1  sunny and warm.

via BGAN, Satellite System courtesy of Global Satellite, Fort Lauderdale, FL

Hello, guest blogger Meghan Taylor here (and one of Holly’s bunkmates). We are now four days into our passage from the Azores to Gibraltar, to complete our Atlantic crossing. It’s been a wet and wild few days here on Argo, with our first major rain storms and the heaviest seas we have experienced thus far.

We left Horta on May 21^st, with calm seas and dolphins guiding us out into open ocean. Over the past day or two, however, the seas have shifted to large following seas with swells up to 15-20 feet! Being on Argo is much like riding a never-ending roller coaster! The weather and big seas have made Argo a challenge to steer, but we all look at it as a good workout. We have had some ‘fun’ with the sails as well, both in putting them up and bringing them down, as the winds have changed. In bringing down the fisherman’s sail yesterday, one shipmate nearly flew up the mast when the sheet got caught up and he struggled to hang out to it. Makes for exciting sailing, but it is also a good reminder of the dangers we face out here and how much we rely on each other.

Today, the rain tapered off and the sun appeared for much of the day. The seas are expected to also taper off tonight, as we get closer to Gibraltar, which is just a few days out. Hard to believe how fast this passage is flying by; we’ll be in Gibraltar before we know it!

Our position at 2030 GMT  is 37° 36.31.’9 N; 15° 18.’8 W and we have traveled 3025 nautical miles since Antigua on 1 May 2010.

From Meghan aboard S/Y ARGO.

Sent via BGAN, Satellite System courtesy of Global Satellite, Fort Lauderdale, FL

Day 24, Monday, 24 May 2010.

I just may want to revise a few things said before. It got hairy on deck during the squall, when taking down Fisherman. The sheet got released a little early, That took Dennis for a ride while he may have been between tether points to secure objects. . To the rescue comes Kevin who was tethered in as required and provided some support or protection from the flogging sheet.

It has been a not so pleasant night with serious rollers / waves, gusty winds, and a lot of rain. The motion aboard is rough. It takes about 10 seconds for ARGO to go from a hard 20+ degree heel to starboard to the same heel on port and back.  That is referred to as “roll” which makes her fairly stiff.  That is great for stability but requires the need to anticipate the quick movement. That awareness is almost impossible to anticipate or to be expected in these seas—especially when you are in the process of opening a watertight door that is heavy and acts as a sometimes dangerous pendulum.

After the last 18 hours, I continue to not understand why we were not issue three arms and legs by our maker?  It would make a lot of things easier. To prove a point, I just lost a perfectly good cup of coffee within 20 seconds of setting it into the sink to secure the cabinet door from which the coffee came. Oh yeah, that happened while I watched my journal go from what was the low side- port to what became the low side—starboard. Also within the same 20 seconds.

At 0800, we are in position; 37° 33.’1 N ; 16° 59.’5W. We have sailed 2944 nautical miles and have approximately 520 nm to go to Gibraltar. We covered 205 from 0900 yesterday till 0900 today.

I am about to send this via BGAN, Satellite System courtesy of Global Satellite, Fort Lauderdale, FL and check out the weather forecast for the Captain.  More later.

The new crew is beginning to blend in and get with the 3 on 6 off program.  Still we have several sea sickness sufferers. The MOY Unlimited-Ocean Students are also adapting well. We are frequently hit with everything from a drizzle to a downpour.  Just like Florida- But really COLD. Barometer has come down from its 1030mb high to a current 1019mb.  It is now windy and cold but blowing in the right direction.

At 1300, we were located at 37° 44.’0 N ; 20° 26.’6 W.  We have sailed 2770 nm with approximately 690 nm to Gibraltar.

The sailing is great. 

As promised earlier, I will provide a brief on some of the crew. I have questioned at random 12 of the original 22 crew—excluding the Sirius Staff. The information requested included the following questions: 

1. Name, City, State, Country, Age.
2. Why this Atlantic Crossing?
3. Final Destination?
4. Life Goal?
5. Maritime Interest?

Kevin O’Cuilinn, Alpine, Texas, USA, He does not like to give age-Circa 70- because he doesn’t expect any special treatment. He has impressed many.

Kevin says, “In New Mexico and over the years I gained lots of inland lake experience board boats to a Morgan 36 that I purchased in 1981.  Sailing came naturally because I was an accomplished high altitude photo pilot in light single engine aircraft.  A career in that profession kept me from the turn in life’s road, a career in the Maritime Industry. To circumnavigate the globe would be my lifetime dream.”  (see & attach photo)

Francois Deprez, Chapel Hill, NC, USA, 44 years old. Francois is our Innkeeper Photographer & onboard fisherman.

Revisiting an old interest—“I needed the crossing because it was needed to complete the Atlantic after having spent two years on Tall ships in Europe over 30 years ago. Destination-Gibraltar. This crossing comes close to my life’s goal. Maritime interest is that I went to Flint – (a Jim Stoll school) over 30 years ago and have always loved most nautical subjects since then. (see & attach photo)

Dennis Hertfelder, Barcelona, Spain, 40 year old.

This crossing is to gain experience and progress on my IYT Courses.

Destination- Athens

Life goal is to keep taking up new projects (sailing open waters) every year or two.  In time get into longer five year projects.

Interest in maritime industry is open to many possibilities & new projects.  My first year project is to complete IYT’s MOY 200 Unlimited- Ocean.  (see & attach photo)

Janie McClanahan, Brooklyn, NY, USA 24 years old.

Reason for crossing:” Adventure / boats are my happy place.”

Final destination: Athens & Beyond.  Life’s goal is to own a sustainable farm.  Maritime interest: Coral reef Biology and amassing nautical knowledge. (see & attach photo). 

In a day or two I will introduce you to 4 more crew members and their reasons for being here.

Meanwhile, the latter part of the day has exhibited horrendous weather from a cold and heavy rain perspective. We are still sailing along towards our destination at 9 plus knots. Due to the weather being so bad, the Captain permitted our first meal below deck. Thanks Capt.

We currently are experiencing a squall and are reducing sail further.  We also just hit 11 knots plus for speed and that was without the Fisherman Sail up. The Fisherman is the upside down sail flown above the main staysail.

 For now, Goodnight from aboard S/Y ARGO

Capt Lou, IYT of Ft Lauderdale Instructor. 

via BGAN, Satellite System courtesy of Global Satellite, Fort Lauderdale, FL

In Summation, we left Antiqua on 1 May, 2010 on our way to the Azores. We arrived in Horta, Faial on Day 16. After 2365 nm under our keel, we celebrated ashore and prepared for rest of voyage over a period of 5 days in Horta. While there, Mirabella V came in and became a much photographed phenom.  She can be seen on one of the attached photos –in the background at her dock as we were exiting Horta. We now have a total 24 crew. We lost our in house Dinghy resident and our biggest 2-Sixer-Simon the Aussie. Simon flew home on 21 May. More on that 2-Sixer later.

While in Horta, I was contacted via a comment on my DOCKWALK Blog from a student at IYT Trevor Timmers, aboard the 130’ M/Y Lady Zelda.  Trevor was a student of mine just a few months ago. Of course, paths crossed when we both had dinner at Peter’s Café Sport. It is indeed a small world out here.

IT is great to be back at sea. Especially with a nice Northerly Breeze permitting us a good beam reach and good progress towards our next objective—GIBRALTAR.  However, before we reach Port we must deal with known currents and potential opposing winds. Current weather reports do not look bad, but can change drastically and in a hurry. The major safety hurdle between ARGO and the Port of Gibraltar is not the 1,000 nm of open water, but the heavy Straits of Gibraltar vessel traffic.

The MOY 200 Unlimited or Ocean Course has started and is going well. We have a total of six students partaking. When completed, we expect that each will be able to determine his position, even after the Lightening, the Government, Jammers or spoofers render GPS unuseable.

At 1300 Local & GMT on 21 May, 2010 our position was 38° 26.’8 N ;  27° 19.’1 W   with the trip log at 2440.

At 0800 Local & GMT on 22 May, 2010 our position was 38° 14.’9 N ;  25°  18.’7 W  with the trip log at 2536.

PS: In case you wonder how a Captain maintains control of crew, I believe that it could be the back-up he has at home. Would you unset this kid’s dad?

Meet ZOE, Captain Boomer &  Chantale’s 7 week old daughter. (See Photo) She is also the reason that Boomer intends to spend more time ashore.

Later.

Capt Lou aboard S/Y ARGO between Azores & Gibraltar.

Day 22, 22 May, 2010 continued…

Our position at 1530 GMT on 22 May, 2010 was 38° 06.’2 N;  24° 04.’1 W and our total trip log read 2594 nm. The Captain strongly suggests that we be ready for a 40/40 at any time.  That means 40 knots of wind with 40 degree of heel.  Last night, however, that meant to me what appeared to be 40 degrees of heel with a shower  water temperature nearing 40 degrees—and I’m not talking Celsius. We have been sailing in excess of 10 knots over extended periods of time on a beam reach.  The heel may be a little much but the quiet and solitude of no engine noise is gratifying.

Our current objective is Gibraltar which lies at 36° 08’ N and 05° 21’ W. 

via BGAN, Satellite System courtesy of Global Satellite, Fort Lauderdale, FL

20 May 2010.  The night before setting sail from Horta,

S/Y ARGO– Legacy now at fuel dock & preparing to sail.

With some additional help, Sean, ARGO’s Chief Mate– shown in photo

and Captain Boomer painted the mural shown in photo

on the fuel dock at Horta Marina.  The mural is in great company with thousands of other murals around the Marina. It is quite a tradition and is even said to be bad luck if you do not prepare such a mural.

We dropped nine crew, and picked up five. We should be in Gibraltar in 6 +/- days.

In the next few updates, I will introduce a random sampling of the non staff crew. It should give you an insight to why they chose S/Y ARGO and this crossing.

After 5 days ashore, it’s high time we leave.  Anxious to go.

I am Capt Lou aboard S/Y ARGO

via BGAN, Satellite System courtesy of Global Satellite, Fort Lauderdale, FL

- Horta Arrival Day- Update  via BGAN, Satellite System courtesy of Global Satellite, Fort Lauderdale, FL

Rose at 0200 to check position.  At 0400 GMT we had completed 2287 nm of the journey.  We were still sailing at 9 kts with an anticipated arrival at the offshore waypoint in 7 + hours. It’s both cold and wet on deck. 

At 0500/ 0700 Argo had sailed 2316 nm with approximately 40 nm to go.  A lot of excitement and desire to spot land exists among crew. The on board guesstimates as to what distance off land would be spotted are quickly becoming more optimistic.  I made the lowest estimate of 20 miles and was still requesting being able to cut that by a lot.  Skies are grey with limited visibility.

At 0700/ 0900 GMT the total was 2333 nm with 26 nm remaining to the waypoint. It appears that it is now time for Watch Team Members to outdo each other.  I hear things like, “Anyone want a cookie—chips ahoy no less”? YOU HAVE COOKIES and didn’t tell your best friend?  The smiles are getting wider—even from those who do not normally smile.

We have one young lady aboard that always smiles—no matter what the circumstances.  Everyone realizes that when Marina leaves ARGO in Horta, That beautiful, warming smile will be gone, but remembered.  I feel sure that someone else will step up to the plate. 

In Horta, but after a few days, we will disembark 9 crew, including two Sirius staff and pick up six including one staff.

The Captain earlier had explained the Port check in procedures regarding first flying the Q –Quebec Flag, and taking passports and ship’s papers to Customs & Immigration for approval and permission to enter. He later had to clarify to one of the non mariners that we would not be flying a Canadian Flag. He also explained that no disembarkation was to take place until he had completed the check in. It was also made clear that by the time he was completed, S/Y ARGO would be shipshape, clean, and very proudly presentable.  With everyone’s help, it will be quick and easy.

Although the deck gets a swabbed  and finished surfaces get chamoised three times daily, salt spray cover all quickly. I am certain that a lot of former students and crew members would get a little chuckle from the fact that Capt Lou has become quite proficient with the chamoise. 

LAND HO at                 from position

Docked at                     in position

LET THE CLEAN-UP BEGIN.  The goal is a Proud Captain, Proud Staff, and Proud Crew-  which comes only after S/Y ARGO is clean and very pleasing to the eye of all who gaze  at her beauty while moored at the Marina in Horta.

And following a few exams for the IYT Students, Shore Leave begins.

Name:                         Alexander Savor

From:                         LaCrosse, WI  USA

Position:                     Mate

Age:                            23

Yrs w/ Sirius:             Joined Seamester in Spring 2009

Primary Duty:           Watch Leader

Licenses:                     MCA MOY 200 Ton Unlimited/ USCG 200 Ton Mate

Other Schooling/Training:   UMD Business, PADI Divemaster, FAA Private Pilot

Ocean Miles:             Around 8k

Most Interesting Passage:   Joined a new boat in Bermuda for delivery down to St Maarten for owner.  I got a call late afternoon living in Ft Lauderdale and was on a plane to Bermuda first light the next morning.  With a crew of 3 total we made it through some interesting seas and sail problems.  The tension on solo night watch was a little higher knowing we were sailing through the Bermuda Triangle the entire way down.

Personal: Growing up in Wisconsin and Minnesota, I went to college for Business Management and obtained my pilots license at an early age and worked through various ratings.  My love for flying brought me to sailing quite easily as everything I enjoy seemed to involve the wind.  I joined Seamester in the Spring of 2009 and love seeing new places and meeting new people. 

Comment for Prospective Voyagers Trainees:  Whether you are looking to do your first crossing just for fun, or are a seasoned salt looking for a little adventure or training, I couldn’t think of a better atmosphere to do it in.  The friendships that develop aboard over the course of the trip are unforgettable as everyone else is sharing in the same amazing experience together.

Name:                         Eric Loss

From:                         Laguna Beach, CA, USA

Position:                     Mate

Age:                            24

Yrs w/ Sirius:    Working full time for Sea|Mester since Summer 2009.

Primary Duty:           Watch Leader

Licenses:                     MCA MOY 200 ton Limited

Other Schooling/Training:  BA Bowdoin College, PADI Divemaster

Ocean Miles:             Around 17K

Most Interesting Passage:   Delivering a yacht from Annapolis to Fort Lauderdale in early spring – the heater on the boat was broken, and with icy water temperatures it was just as cold down below as on deck. It was a mental and physical challenge never being able to get away from the cold.

Comment for Prospective Voyagers Trainees:  Crossing an Ocean is a very different experience than you can get in any kind of coastal sailing.  You never know what the sea is going to throw at you, and are totally self reliant.  It’s a great way to learn and provides a new perspective on sailing.